I have thought about rubbing a bit of the green compound on the back of my belt,but haven't done so as I don't want to get the compound on my hands or clothes. If the edge is ALMOST razor sharp,I can bring it back to razor sharp without going out to the shop. ![]() ![]() I pull out the several inches of belt that go beyond the buckle,and use it as a strop. I often touch up my pocket knife when sitting in my recliner,by stropping it on the back of my wide leather belt. You can get by without any strop except a sheet of paper,like I did when I was a kid with no money. And the advantage of a great hollow grind is that there is minimal steel to hone, which makes for sharp and quick. The advantage of the hollow grind is that it is self-jigging. One is also honing more steel than when honing a micro bevel on a hollow friend. The disadvantage of the PS system is that it relies a lot on muscle memory for accuracy. When it ends, the shaft must not be above the bevel angle. I start the stroke at the far end of the stone, ensure it is around 20-25 degrees (lower than the sliding bevel), and draw it towards me. This is set at 35 degrees at the near end of my stone. To achieve a reasonably accurate 35 degrees, I employ a sliding bevel as a guide. I do not want a bevel of 40 degrees - it will not slice into wood well. I do not want a bevel of 28 degrees - it will fold in my hardwoods. They are too difficult to stick into a honing guide to create a secondary of 35 degrees. These are chisels with thick shafts and 20 degree primary bevels. Did you just freehand it willy-nilly, or did you employ some way of accurately determining the angle you created at the edge of the bevel? I can imagine many trying to emulate Paul Sellers and instead creating a cutting edge somewhere around 45 degree while swearing that they never raised the blade over 30 degrees. The question for you is "how did you apply this technique?". My question is whether anyone uses Paul's freehand method and gets positive results? I think at this point I will go back to my honing guide i'll keep the DMT stones and start using the strop and see if I can get a consistent sharp edge or if i have to go back to waterstones. Now I'm frustrated bc I've got a plane iron that has this crazy convex bevel and I've spent about an hour now trying to re-establish the bevel at 30 degrees using my honing guide instead of freehand. I could not get a shaving to save my life. I thought i had a sharp edge (felt the burr) and stopped and tried it out. Anyway, my first attempt at freehand sharpening my plane iron seemed ok (at first) i had the convex bevel and the feathered wings. I don't have water in the garage so I thought having the DMT's around would make sharpening easier. ![]() Previously I have used a Norton 1000/8000 waterstone with the "ruler trick" and got really great results. I must have watched his video on sharpening plane irons at least 30 times before attempting I just recently replaced my Stanley No. That said, I bought a set of coarse, fine, and x-fine DMT stones and made up my leather strop (Just like Paul's setup on the video). Hello all, I've been watching Paul Sellers' videos quite a bit lately and he finally had me convinced of the quickness of diamond stones on the bench and "get right back to work".
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